ISI Spares
Burner, Ignition & Regulator Repair with ISI-Marked Spares
Three components cause the large majority of gas stove complaints: the burner assembly, the ignition system and the regulator. All three are individually repairable and inexpensive, which is why replacing a whole stove for any of them is almost always the wrong call. Work is done in front of you, with the old part shown and the replacement identified.
Call us if you notice
- Ignition sparks weakly or only on some burners
- Repeated clicking with no light-up
- Burner crown lighting unevenly around the ring
- Regulator hissing, stiff to fit, or leaking at the neck
- Flame drops sharply when the cylinder is half empty
- Knob spinning without controlling the flame
What the visit covers
- Ignition electrode, lead and module testing
- Spark-gap adjustment or electrode replacement
- Burner crown, cap and jet cleaning or renewal
- Regulator testing and replacement with ISI-marked parts
- Knob, spindle and valve gasket service
- Leak test and final flame check on every burner
Why it is worth fixing rather than replacing
The parts that actually fail on gas appliances — jets, nozzles, ignition electrodes, thermocouples, knob spindles, gaskets, regulators — are inexpensive and individually replaceable. The appliance body, which is the expensive part, almost never fails. That is why replacing a whole stove or hob for an ignition fault is usually the wrong call, and why Sunny will tell you honestly when something genuinely is beyond economical repair rather than selling you work that will not last.
Every visit includes a safety check
Whatever the booked job, the visit finishes with a soap-solution leak test across the joints, valves and hose, plus a flame check on every burner. Gas work that skips this step is not finished work. If something outside the booked job needs attention, you are told about it and given the cost — not charged for it unannounced.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do you use genuine or ISI-marked spare parts?
ISI-marked spares for safety-critical components such as regulators and hoses, and genuine or equivalent-grade parts for burners, jets and ignition components. The part is shown to you before it goes in.
Auto-ignition stopped working. Is it the battery?
On battery-ignition stoves it very often is — worth checking first. If a fresh cell does not help, the usual culprits are a dirty or cracked electrode, a damaged lead, or a failed ignition module. All are replaceable without changing the stove.
My flame drops when the cylinder is half empty. Is the cylinder faulty?
Usually not. That pattern typically points to a worn regulator or a partially blocked jet rather than the cylinder. A regulator test settles it quickly.